Art Glass Supplies

Creating glass art is a wonderful and rewarding hobby. You can create glass figurines for yourself, blow glass art to give away as gifts, or even sell your beautiful glass art creations. If you are a glass art creator, you are probably always on the lookout for art glass supplies. And if you are just starting out, you need to know what kinds of supplies are necessary. Our list of art glass supplies and where to get them will help you get started acquiring the items you need or replenish your existing supplies.

The first type of art glass supplies is safety equipment. Before you buy anything else, you should stock up on glasses, gloves, clothing protection and any other glass safety supplies you need. This will depend on what kind of glass art you are participating in. When coloring glass, you should always have good gloves. If you are into blowing glass, you need heat protection. And you should consider proper footwear in any art glass endeavor.

The second type of art glass supplies is decorative items. Things such as coloring and molds are needed in order to be creative in your glass making. You should also look into purchasing glass art books. These books come in a range of subjects, from safety concerns and getting started, to advanced techniques and creative ideas. You might also look into purchasing a coffee table-style book filled with pictures of stained glass art. These books can be very inspiring and help you create better glass art pieces of your own.

If you are into more specific glass art hobbies, then you may have different art glass supply needs. Individuals who make glass art beads and jewelry will need jeweler's supplies and equipment in addition to beads and bead-making supplies. If you choose to buy your glass beads instead of make them, you have a wide variety of options. Craft stores and internet sites offer infinite design possibilities for you to choose from.

If you are a glass blower, you will need special equipment for making your art. A glass blowing machine can be found affordably when you buy used. Check online at sites such as ebay. You might also check to see if there glass blowing shops in your area. Many times these places allow patrons the use of a glass blowing machine for an hourly fee. You will also need additional safety equipment if you are a glass blower, make sure you are covered and safe as this hobby can be a dangerous one.

Spun glass is a wonderful art form and a great way to decorate your home. If you are looking for design tips, spun glass decoration, and information on art glass supplies and antique stained glass or spun glass decor and gifts we can help by providing information, FAQs and reviews. Spun glass figurines also make wonderful gifts. A new piece of spun glass art depicting a happy couple makes an excellent wedding gift. Or hand down tradition with a gift of antique spun glass for a college graduation, a monumental birthday, or some other special occasion. If you choose to make spun glass beads and jewelry, then you know how rewarding this hobby can be.

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DIY - Stained Glass

Stained glass is fabulous, that is a fact. It can add a lot of luxury and charm to your home. Learning how to make it is not that difficult and you will see how in the following lines.

How to do it yourself.

As you have read stain glass production is a hard thing and you cannot do it at home. However there is an alternative that will allow you to make wonderful stained glass pieces.

The first thing you will need is the pattern. There are many patterns available in the internet so just spend some time and find the one you like the most.

Once you have your pattern number it and cut it apart. As you ca see stained glass is made of various small colored glass pieces so the pattern should correspond to this idea.

The cut and numbered pattern is than traced onto the glass. Use glass of different colors for ach part of the pattern. Break the pattern into pieces and foil them together. When all pieces have been foiled, place them into the assembly jig.

The next step is to solder the pieces together. It is important that you solder all foiled joints to create the metal web that holds the glass pieces. Use solder and soldering iron and fill carefully all joints.

In fact your stained glass project is finished. All you need to do is to clean it using water and a soft cloth. You can also add an ancient look by applying some patina solution after the cleaning.

Fake stained glass.

If the above sounds too complicated or you do not have the time and the tools to achieve it, try some fake stained glass projects. You can get some glass and pint it with glass paints to achieve the look of original stained glass.

You can buy glass paints from every craft shop. Usually they come along several stained glass patterns. If you do not like the patterns provided search for new ones in the internet.

Working with glass paints is not that difficult. All paint glass sets come along a transparent foil that you can place over the pattern and trace it. After the paints are completely dry you should peel of the pattern and stick it to the glass.

Another option is to cut the pattern and trace it on the glass. Than you can pain straight over the glass.

Keith Londrie II is the Webmaster of http://www.stained-glass-info.info/ A website that specializes in providing information stained Glass that you can research on the internet. Visit http://www.stained-glass-info.info/ now!

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The Art of Glasses

Glassware, traditional cocktail glasses have sloping sides and a stem, making ihem ideal for drinks served without ice or large, elaborate fruit garnishes. But you may also find ones with a rounded cup, reminiscent of the popular style in the twenties and thirties and jmilar to champagne glasses. These come in a variety of sizes, with capacity ranging from 3 to 6 ounces. The large ones are most suited drinks made with cream or fruit juice, and the smaller ones are porlect for dry aperitifs, other cocktails, and very alcoholic after dinner drinks. By the way, the thinner a cocktail glass is, the quicker it will chill in the refrigerator.

Rocks glasses are short, with thick bottoms, and are also known as low ball glasses. They are so named because they are most commonly used for serving measures of straight liquor poured "on the rocks." Old-fashioned glasses, another type of short glass with a bump in the bottom, are used for the eponymous classic blended whiskey and sweet vermouth drink.

Both these glasses are interchangeable and no in a range of sizes, holding 4 to 10 ounces, while a double old-fashioned glass has a capacity of about 16 ounces. Tall straight highball glasses, holding about 8 ounces, are the ones used for a spirits plus a mixer, such as scotch and soda or bourbon and water. Collins glasses are similar but larger and often frosted, and used for the sweetened gin and soda drink called a Tom Collins.

Balloon-shaped brandy snifters range in size from 5 ounces, small enough to cradle in the palm of one hand, to ones for holding up to 3 cups of liquid. Whatever size you choose, however, the most important feature is the narrow opening. This allows the drinker to sniff the drink's concentrated aroma easily. Always remember only to pour a thin layer of brandy in the bottom of the glass--it should never be filled above one-quarter full.

An American-style champagne glass, also called a champagne saucer or a coupe, or a tall, European-style champagne flute, is the natural choice for serving any sparkling wine or aperitifs prepared with champagne or sparkling wine, such as Kir Royale. Perhaps the most useful glasses to have behind the bar are wine glasses. The ideal white wine glass is thin with a tall stem and is tulip shaped, which bellies at the bottom and narrows at the top. The red wine glass has a shorter stem and is also slightly tulip shaped. The burgundy glass is the most versatile of the red wine glasses. It can, in fact, be used to serve beer and red aperitifs, too.

A useful, inexpensive, everyday wine glass, with a balloon shape, which is suitable for serving either red or white wine and numerous cocktails, is called the Paris goblet. Note that when pouring wine, a big glass should be filled only half full, and a small glass only two-thirds full. Dessert wines or brandies are served in a small, tulip-shaped liqueur glass, or in a liqueur saucer. You can also use the liqueur.

In serve fruit spirits and fruit eaux-de-vie. Dessert wine glasses ,iKo appropriate for serving fortified wines, as well as flips,, and other short drinks. Alcoholic and nonalcoholic punches are popular for celebratory gatherings and other large parties. Punch glasses are squat glasses lerized by having a handle and wide opening, but not a stem. If you are serving a hot punch, grog, or mulled wine be sure to use a h oof glass with a handle that will not become too hot to hold.

In addition to the above classic types of glassware, there is also a plethora of special glasses, such as the pousse-cafe glass for the famous layered cocktail, the flip glass, the sour glass, and novelty glasses for just about every occasion. But, as already mentioned, it is only worth acquiring all these glasses in the rarest of cases, because most drinks can be served in glasses you already own, even if the style is not quite right.

If, for example, you already have white wine glasses, I use them for fizzes and crustas. If your champagne flutes are not too narrow then you can also serve flips, frappes, and daisies in them, kinds of tall glass or Collins glasses have versatile uses and, for example, are ideal for highballs, fizzes, and milkshakes. Carafes or pitchers also have a place in your home bar. They are good for pouring fruit and vegetable juices, cream, and milk.

Check out more of the same content as well as the best bar equipment click on the links below

Barstool - We have information on the best bar stool for each and every bar style.

Bar supply - Bar supplies & bar equipment online. Your entire bar supplies, beer supplies, & wine supplies online.

Jello Shots - Make that party come to life with a jello shot!

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10 Things to Avoid When Cutting Art Glass for Fusing - Part 2

This article is a continuation from the article titled "10 Things to Avoid When Cutting Glass - Part 1". It was written to give you some basic rules and guidelines to make your experience a lot more pleasant and successful. I am writing this based on my 25+ years of experience in working with art glass, both stained (copper foil and lead came techniques) and fused glass. I have come to love cutting glass. In fact, it is my favorite part of the process.

So, here is what NOT to do when cutting any glass (Tips 6 - 10), especially art glass:

6. Never delay breaking your glass soon after making the score. Glass has a unique property of "healing" itself after a period of time. In other words, though the score may still be visible, it may not break along it any longer. What is happening is that the molecules that have been disturbed near the surface of the glass when the score is made will eventually return to normal.

How long can you wait? I don't have that answer. It may still break after 5 minutes or 15 minutes or a half an hour, possibly. You can bet that tomorrow it will not break though. Why take the chance? Glass will break the best and the most predictably right after scoring, so go ahead and break it right away, as soon as possible.

7. Avoid scoring and breaking too tight a curve all at once and expecting it to break predictably, especially an "inside curve". Always break curves in stages, a little at a time, in graduated steps, whether it is an outside or inside curve. It just makes life easier, and I am all for making it easy, aren't you?
8. Cutting on the "wrong" side of the glass will make things difficult. By this I mean the side of the glass that is more uneven or bumpy. It will be hard to guide your cutter where you want it to go if it has to go over bumps and crevices. Usually one side of the glass is smoother than the other, so it is better to choose the side that is smoother so you have more control over your glass cutter wheel. In the case of dichroic glass, it may be safer to cut it (and to mark it!) on the side which does not have the dichroic coating, to protect the coating from damage.
Do you know how to tell on which side the dichroic coating is on clear glass? It is difficult to see sometimes, isn't it? Here is a trick: place the glass against a black or dark surface. Make the point of a pen touch the glass and look at the reflection of the pen point on the glass. Does it look like the point is not touching the glass? Then the dichroic side is face down. Does it look like the point is touching the glass? That indicates that the dichroic side (the metallic, reflective side) is face up. Neat, huh?

9. Never force the break when it seems to stop. The trick to cutting glass is to work with it, not against it or trying to force it to do what you want. It is much better to think of it as "coaxing" it to break where you want it to. When you align your breaking pliers (or your hands) on either side of the score, apply firm, steady pressure and just keep applying it until the score seems to stop "running".

This will tend to happen especially if it is a long score or if you are breaking a curve. When it stops, simply turn your piece of glass around and start the break again from the other end of the score. It usually works like a charm.

10. Do not get frustrated! Remember, this is, for most people, supposed to be a fun hobby! Make it enjoyable, make it a game, a challenge, and just have fun with it. Smile when you make a "mistake" because it is not really a mistake. It can be a valuable lesson. We really do learn the most from our mistakes. If everything went perfectly the first time, it wouldn't be much of a challenge and, consequently, not very satisfying when we finally get it right. Think how great it will feel when you have learned how to do this successfully.

Also, remember, sometimes glass will break badly simply because it is glass! It is inherent in the glass, especially some of the hand-rolled glasses (like Bullseye and Uroboros), that they can be a bit temperamental, so don't take it to heart. Just start again. Chances are you can still use the piece of glass that broke badly for something else.

I hope some of this has helped and that your glass cutting experience will be easier, more successful, and certainly more satisfying. Enjoy and have a good time!

Thanks for reading this little guide. Happy cutting!

Arlene Holtz is a professional artist working in fused glass and oil painting. She has worked with art glass for over 25 years, making stained glass windows as well as fused dichroic glass jewelry and other fused art glass objects. She enthusiastically loves to share her knowledge and has taught many classes in stained and fused glass. Visit her website at [http://www.ArlenesArtworks.com]

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10 Things to Avoid When Cutting Art Glass for Fusing - Part 1

How to Make Your Glass Cutting Experience More Effective and Fun
Some people have learned glass cutting as part of an introductory stained glass or glass fusing class or workshop. Others have only learned the very rudimentary skills in a trial-and-error fashion, or by a friend giving them a few pointers and maybe (if you are lucky) a demonstration.

This guide is meant to give you some basic rules and guidelines to make your experience a lot more pleasant and successful. I am writing this based on my 25+ years of experience in working with art glass, both stained (copper foil and lead came techniques) and fused glass. I have come to love cutting glass. In fact, it is my favorite part of the process.

So, here is what NOT to do when cutting any glass, especially art glass:

1. Avoid pressing too hard when you make the score in the glass. You will know you are pressing too hard because the score line will be a VERY visible "scratch" and you may even see tiny shards of glass flying away from the score line as you move your cutter wheel across the glass surface. Sometimes you can still break along such a score line, but the results are not very predictable. This is especially important when cutting some of the thin dichroic or other fusing glass.
2. Also, avoid pressing too lightly when making the score. This will be evident in several ways. You will not be able to hear the score being made and/or the score line will be very faint, if visible at all. In thicker glass especially it will be very difficult to break along such a score or the break will not follow the score line and may veer off in a direction you do not want. A good score will be visible, consistent, and will break easily. It will be made with a medium but firm, consistent pressure. I have found this easier to do using a pistol-grip glass cutter which is more ergonomic to hold. Also, by leaning my body weight into my score, rather than relying only on pressure from the wrist, I have had better success. Standing while scoring is recommended rather than sitting down, I have found.

3. NEVER re-score over a line you have scored already. This is a definite No-No! When you do this, you not only ruin your cutter very quickly if you do it repeatedly, but you also run the risk of your glass not breaking well. By scoring more than once at the same place, the molecules become very "confused" (my term!) and do not follow the rules of breaking. Besides, a good glass cutter is expensive, so why make its useful life so short?
4. Do not run your glass cutter right off the edge of the glass and make it go "clunk" as your cutter hits the table. It may sound kind of interesting, but it also will shorten the life of your cutter, and it is really not necessary. That brings me to the next point.
5. Don't forget to start your score near one edge of the glass piece and end at another edge of the glass. This may seem obvious to the seasoned glass cutter, yet it is very important. Here is a clue about how close to the edge you need to start and finish your score. It does not have to be exactly at the corner of both edges. In fact, starting and ending your score on the top surface of the glass near the edge (within about a sixteenth to an eighth of an inch from the actual edge) is sufficient. Thanks for reading this little guide. Happy cutting! For the rest of this guide (Tips 6 - 10), see "10 Things to Avoid When Cutting Glass - Part 2".

Arlene Holtz is a professional artist working in fused glass and oil painting. She has worked with art glass for over 25 years, making stained glass windows as well as fused dichroic glass jewelry and other fused art glass objects. She enthusiastically loves to share her knowledge and has taught many classes in stained and fused glass. Visit her website at [http://www.ArlenesArtworks.com]

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Stained Glass Painting - 6 Big Myths Which Hold You Back

Here are 6 big myths of kiln-fired stained glass painting. Throw away these silly myths and take your stained glass painting to fantastic heights! Fasten your seat-belt and be prepared for the ride of your life.

The way we paint will change the way you paint!

Myth #1 - "Paint your trace lines first"

This seems obvious, and it's what all the books tell you to do.

But, when you paint a room, what's the first thing you do once you've cleaned all the surfaces?

You paint an undercoat!

It's just the same with glass. When you first paint an undercoat over the whole surface of the glass, your tracing lines will have a beautiful surface to stick to. It's amazing how much easier it is to paint a neat tracing line when you're no longer painting on bare glass but an on unfired undercoat instead.

Take care to paint the undercoat as lightly and evenly as possible and then to let it dry. Then start to paint the other details.

Using an undercoat is common sense when you think about it, and it works like a dream.

Myth #2 - "Paint and fire your trace lines before you paint your shadows and matting"

Well, this is so much a part of received wisdom that we feel a bit like Galileo when we tell you that it's just not true.

Of course, if you really want to, you can certainly paint and fire your trace lines first, but the point is you don't have to.

In fact, you can paint many shadows before you paint your trace lines: your glass painting will become extraordinarily delicate and suggestive when you do this.

Here's what you do.

Start by painting a light, even undercoat over the whole surface of the glass and let it dry.

Now paint some light, dry trace lines where you want some shadows to be, and let them dry.

Then reinforce these lines with second coats and let them dry.

The final step is to paint a light wash over the whole surface of the unfired glass, and, while this paint is still wet, use your blender to soften the trace lines and turn them into gentle shadows.

Once the paint is dry, you can then trace further details. The effect is gorgeous: gentle blurs and shadows which soften the boldness of your trace lines.

Myth #3 - "You must fire a layer of paint before you paint on top of it - otherwise the paint will blister in the kiln"

There are several causes of blistering, but painting on top of unfired paint is not one of them: we often paint six layers of paint, then fire our glass just once. That's right: we layer up our paint and fire our glass just once. The paint never blisters. So what causes blistering? There are four main causes.

A. Too much gum Arabic in your paint: the solution is to dilute your paint so that it contains a smaller proportion of gum Arabic.

B. Not waiting until a previous layer is completely dry: the solution is to allow earlier layers always to dry completely before you paint on top of them.

C. Correcting a line or shadow before it dries: the solution is to allow a stroke to dry completely before correcting it.

D. An incorrect firing schedule: consider slowing the rate of increase, lowering the top temperature and/or decreasing the amount of time that you hold the top temperature.

Follow these suggestions and you'll be able to paint on top of unfired paint as much as you wish. The effect can be astonishing - and your paint won't blister!

Myth #4 - "You can't paint on both sides of the glass and fire the glass just once"

When you paint on both sides of a piece of glass, you create a magical sense of depth.

For example, you can take a blue piece of glass and paint waves on top and fish beneath (as if you were peering through the waves to see the fish below).

The advantage of doing this in a single firing is that you can adjust both sides before fixing them permanently in the kiln.

Most people don't even consider painting on both sides of the glass. And, of those who do, most of them believe each side must be fired separately, but this is just not true.

At our studio, we place our glass on a bed of plaster of Paris: the heat from the kiln is more than enough to fire paint on both sides at once, and the underside never sticks.

Try this technique for yourself and see what we mean!

Myth #5 - "You can't mix oil and water"

Again, this seems so self-evident that no one ever questions it or even considers how to take advantage of it.

But we did, and here's the technique we've pioneered.

First of all we use some water-based paint to shade and trace as usual.

Then, before firing, we use some oil-based paint and add more details. It's amazing, but the oil-based paint doesn't disturb the unfired water-based paint below.

Then we fire the glass just once. In this way we can add as many as six layers of paint all on top of one another and finish our glass in a single firing.

Myth #6 - "The best way to mix glass paint is to mix a teaspoonful at a time"

We've left this myth till last because we first wanted to demonstrate the 5 amazing things we can do in our stained glass studio. And the reason we can do them is that we ALWAYS paint with a LUMP of paint.

We always mix several ounces of glass paint at a time, add a little gum Arabic and just enough water so that the glass paint is like a bulbous jelly fish that's been washed up on a beach.

This lump, of course, is too thick and dark to paint with as it is. But this means we can dilute it a little at a time and so prepare small batches of glass paint which are the perfect consistency for the next couple of strokes. So the lump lasts for ages. We cover the lump when we aren't using it, and we re-mix it from time to time.

Liberate your painting - paint with a LUMP! Painting with a lump is your passport to a whole new world of beautiful glass painting.

What happens when you throw away these 6 big myths of stained glass painting?

It doesn't matter what all the books say. It doesn't even matter what the experts say. The only thing which matters is what works. We threw away these 6 big myths some years ago, and you can see our painted stained glass in buildings across the world. If what we say strikes a cord in your heart and excites you forward to new skills, we'll be absolutely thrilled.

Stephen Byrne is a director of the Williams & Byrne stained glass studio: see the studio's portfolio at http://www.williamsandbyrne.com To pass on the studio's knowledge and experience, there is now a site where you can download stained glass designs and step-by-step guides to beautiful stained glass painting. Get these downloads and there'll be no holding you back from painting stained glass as beautifully as you've always wanted to: visit http://www.realglasspainting.com

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How to Cut, Score and Break Glass

Glass can be cut into strips, geometric shapes, circles, ovals, curves and with a glass saw, almost any shape.

Some Things to Keep in Mind

Warm glass (glass at room temperature) cuts easier than cold glass
Work surface needs to be flat
Score on the smooth side of glass rather than on the textured side
Hold glass cutter in a vertical position as you would a pen or pencil
Don't use excessive pressure. Too deep of a score can result in a bad break
For protection, it's a good idea to wear glasses or another type of eye protection

Straight Cuts

When making a straight score, start scoring the glass from the point farthest from your body and pull the glass cutter towards you. Once a score line is made, use running pliers (if strip is at least 1" wide) by placing the running pliers centered on the score line and gently squeeze the handles. You will hear a slight cracking noise and see the glass separate along the score line. Or, hold the stained glass sheet over an edge of a table with the score line slightly overhanging the edge. Use breaking or grozier pliers and apply gentle pressure in a downward motion along the score line. This can also be done with your hands using the same downward motion. Practice will make for perfection, soon.

Curve Cuts

To make a curved cut, use the glass cutter to cut off sections one at a time. This allows you to work into the curve. Glass likes straight lines or lines with gentle bends. If the shape has irregularities or small projections, these are easily removed with a nipper or glass grinder. In other words, don't rush the cut especially if it is an inside curve. Just chip away at it a little bit at a time.

Cutting Circles

Score the glass in the shape and size of the desired circle. Use a permanent marker to place a dot where you start scoring to avoid going over the starting point. Next, place the scored line side of the glass down on a piece of corrugated cardboard. Use light pressure and press along the score line until you see it run the circle. Then, turn the glass over to the side you first scored on and score several tangent cuts radiating out from the circle. Finally, break each tangent score line with breaking pliers. The circle should cut clean without any jagged edges.

How To Avoid Common Problems

Cutter wheel wears out quickly - Lift your cutter up instead of sliding it off the edge of the glass or cut on a surface covered with vinyl or carpet
Bad breaks after scoring - Too much pressure was applied on the glass cutter
Score line looks like dotted line - Cutter wheel is dull and needs to be replaced

Be sure to turn your pattern template over when you are tracing your pattern onto the backside of the glass where it smoother. Failure to do this will end up in wasted glass and lots of wasted time, not to mention frustration.

I started out as a stained glass admirer. After a class in stained glass, I became addicted. At first I made stained glass to decorate my homes, which lead to friends asking me to make stained glass for them. Now I am a full time professional making stained glass as well as instructing others on how to make stained glass. My studio is located outside of Chicago, Illinois. For more information on making stained glass go to http://www.creativity-in-glass.com

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Stained Glass Construction - Leaded Vs Foiled

There are two ways to make stained glass, leaded or copper foiled. The major difference between the two is in the construction. With leaded, the glass is fitted into channels of lead came. In contrast, copper foiled, is constructed by wrapping each piece of glass with copper foil.

Leaded stained glass historically is found in churches. It was during the Victoria Era where leaded  glass was introduced into homes and has remained a popular method of constructing stained glass ever since.

Foiled glass was mastered by Tiffany in the early 1900's and soon after became a popular method for creating stained glass.

Common Questions:

Is one method better than the other?

The simple answer is no. A better answer is that it depends on the artist and the design.

What is the difference in leaded and foiled construction?

With leaded glass, the construction must begin at an outer corner, the individual pieces are fitted into lead came. Once all pieces are cut and placed in lead came, the joints of came are soldered. Then the piece is cemented.

With foiled glass, the construction can begin at any point in the design and worked out from there. The individual pieces are wrapped in copper foil and soldered together.

When is foiled stained glass construction better than lead?

With intricate designs, foiled construction is superior

When is lead construction better than foiled?

Leaded construction is used most often with designs that have repetitive geometric shapes. These designs can be foiled, but construction time is increased.

Which is easier?

There is no simple answer for this. It is really a personal preference. Leaded, foiled or combination of the two are used throughout the stained glass industry.

Is leaded or foiled construction better than the other?

No, each method, if done correctly, will provide the same long lasting beauty and endurance.

Why is foiled construction taught to beginners doing stained glass?

The cementing in leaded construction tends to be messy. Foiled construction can be started and stopped, making weekly classes work.

What are the steps for making leaded glass?

Glass is cut, shaped and fitted into channels of lead came.
Joints of lead came are soldered.
The piece is cemented
The piece is cleaned and polished

What are the steps for making foiled glass?

Glass is cut and shaped, and then each piece is wrapped in copper foil.
Copper foil seams are soldered together.
The piece is cleaned and polished.

My Personal Choice:

I tend to do a lot of intricate designs, so I use the foiled construction method. It provides the flexibility and detail I need for my designs.

Author: Maureen Summy
Creativity-in-Glass http://www.creativity-in-glass.com

If you would like more detailed information for making stained glass using the foiled method, check out http://www.creativity-in-glass.com/how-to-make-stained-glass.html

I started out as a stained glass admirer. After a class in stained glass, I became addicted. At first I made stained glass to decorate my homes, which lead to friends asking me to make stained glass for them. Now I am a full time professional making stained glass as well as instructing others on how to make stained glass. My studio is located outside of Chicago, Illinois.

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Promotional Glasses - Advertising in Your Hand

From bars to fast food restaurants, promotional glasses are everywhere you look. They advertise everything from the name of the establishment to cartoon characters. Glasses are a staple item that can appeal to everyone. Printed glasses can either be a useful promotional item, as in they can be used for the purpose they were made or if you wish they can simply be put on display to show off your company name and logo to its best advantage.

But why is it that people are drawn into purchasing promotional glasses? Let's take a look at the reasons.

1. Promotional glasses are collector's items - a lot of people collect them in hopes that one day they may become valuable.

2. Promotional glasses are good souvenirs - they are an item that people buy so that they can remember places that they have eaten when they are on vacation.

3. Promotional glasses are a fun collectable for kids. Usually the cartoon glasses that are offered by fast food restaurants are plastic and kid safe.

Although promotional glasses are usually thought of as something that is sold, that isn't always the case. Although a lot of branded glasses are sold, there are a few other reasons that companies and organisations order promotional glasses

1. Promotional glasses are a great way to commemorate a milestone in a company or organisation's history,

2. Promotional glasses are a way to give clients or employees something a bit more special in thanks for their dedication and loyalty.

3. Promotional glasses are a nice favour for a company event, such as a banquet or a holiday dinner.

One of the great things about promotional glasses is the fact that they are very versatile. There are many types of glasses that you can choose from and you are certain to be able to find something that will fit your needs. Some of the more common types of glasses that companies choose from are:

Wine glasses

Shot glasses

Glass coffee mugs

Another thing that people find when they are ordering printed glasses is that they can put a lot of information on their promotional glasses. There are quite a number of items that can be printed on glasses that a company orders and that the possibilities are endless. But some of the more common items that are put onto glasses are:

Company or organisation name

Date of event

How many years the person/company/organisation is celebrating

Person's name, if applicable

It's easy to see why so many companies and organisations turn to branded glasses when they are looking for a promotional item. Few other promotional items offer such a wide range of options, choices when it comes to whether the branded glasses are elegant or more casual, and how much to spend on each one.

They afford the ability to put as much or as little information on the printed glass you choose as you wish and they are something that you know people are going to enjoy. Whether they are a branded glass to be used or to be displayed, the promotional glass that is chosen is something that will be noticed.

Matt Franks is director of Fluid Branding, the UK's leading online supplier of Promotional Glasses and Branded Glasses. You can also find a wide range of Eco Friendly promotional products, including Recycled, Organic and Sustainable items at Eco Incentives.

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Vintage Fenton Carnival Glass

Carnival Glass has become a popular collectors item in recent years. Contemporary pieces are readily available at cheap prices. However, the vintage Carnival Glass is really what is popular with collectors. To give you some additional information on this American art form, I will discuss the history, manufacture, and values of this beautiful glassware.

Carnival Glass History

Early in the 20th century, Tiffany & Co. and the Steuben Glass Co. produced a hand-blown iridized glass that was very popular with their wealthy clientele. These items, were hand made and commanded extremely high prices. In 1907, the Fenton Art Glass Company began mass-production of a high-quality and low-cost iridized glass, similar to the items crafted by Tiffany and Steuben. The Fenton iridized glass which was available in numerous colors, including a unique red. Fenton was not the only manufacturer of iridized glass, but it was the largest producing the colorful glass in over 150 patterns.

With entry into Great Depression, iridized glass lost its popularity. The inventory of this glassware was subsequently deeply discounted and commonly given away in supermarket and cereal promotions. In addition, the glassware was given away in carnival games, hence, the subsequent name Carnival Glass.

Popularity of iridized glass resurged in the 1950s with dealers and collectors and it was during this period that this glassware gained the name Carnival Glass. Today, the glass is still manufactured by Fenton, and several other companies.

Other Carnival Glass Manufacturers

Fenton, Northwood, Imperial Glass, Westmoreland and Dugan are just a few companies that manufactured carnival glass. Some of these manufacturers stamped their pieces with a distinctive mark. However, most other manufacturers did not mark their goods leaving some vintage pieces impossible to authenticate. Today, because of competition, and high labor costs, few of these manufacturers still remain.

Carnival Glass Values

The vintage Carnival Glass manufactured early in the 20th century is, by far, the most valuable, and sought after pieces. Color and condition play a large role in determining value. Chips, cracks, manufacturing defects and repairs reduce the value. If an item is a rare color like aqua it is of more value than an item in marigold that is common. The Red Carnival Glass manufactured by Fenton is very rare, and popular with collectors. Punch bowl sets, because they consist of multiple items, command high prices if complete with all pieces.

Contemporary Carnival Glass can be acquired at very reasonable prices. Many of these contemporary pieces are reproductions of their vintage counterparts. Because of the low cost, contemporary pieces are more suitable for the wear and tear of everyday use. Traditionally, venues such as antique shops and flea markets have been the primary source for vintage Carnival Glass. Today, take a look at eBay for thousands of listings of both vintage and carnival glass at great prices. Remember, one persons trash is another persons treasure.

It is so ironic that at one point in time Fenton Carnival Glass was so common, it could hardly be given away. Today, some vintage pieces sell for thousands of dollars.

Ross Bassette is an experienced eBay merchant and collector of vintage Carnival Glass. If you enjoyed reading this article, please feel free to visit our website and find some great deals on Fenton Carnival Glass.
Vintage Fenton Carnival Glass

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Glass Block Windows - 5 Steps For Installation Success

Like many product categories the installation options for glass block windows have grown proportionately to the expanding design options. Years ago, blocks were made in a 8" x 8" x 4" size in a few patterns and put together inside a masonry window opening (usually by a skilled mason) block by block with a gray mortar and masons sand - not real sexy, but it worked. In today's world people want to use blocks more creatively in different types of openings (could be masonry, framed, steel openings etc.) for a wide variety of uses, and not have to rely strictly on a mason to get the job done. The following 5 installation steps can help you think through what's needed to have your block window installation project go smoothly.

o Step 1 - Ask, "What size is my window opening?"- The size of the opening is a large factor in the window installation approach. There are two basic ways to install a glass block window:

* (Option 1) As a window panel alone, or as a panel built into a vinyl or metal framed window system.

* (Option 2) installing the glass blocks one by one inside of the opening.

A benefit of glass block is it's a heavy material, the challenge is it's a heavy material when you're installing it! For most openings less than 25 square feet consider option 1, the block window built as panel (or section) vs. option 2. Option 2 is usually more difficult, costly, and requires a higher skill level. For the first option you can get a block window panel built by a glass block window manufacturer, often saving time and money.

o Step 2 - Ask, "Where is this block window going?" A key factor in the block window installation is if the glass window is going in new construction or a remodeling project, and whether the surrounding construction is masonry (poured concrete or concrete blocks) or frame (surrounded by wood). Here are some recommendations for each job condition:

* New construction projects in framed openings - For new construction framed openings use a vinyl framed nail in glass block window. Consult your glass window manufacturer for the size to create your rough framed opening. These windows (which are usually siliconed together for an all glass look) can be purchased with nailing fins to simply nail in from the outside just like a traditional vinyl window in new construction. Since they can be manufactured with the 2" thick series of blocks (in either a high privacy "Ice" pattern or "Wave" pattern from Mulia Inc.) they are lighter than traditional block windows. These windows can also be purchased for the 3" and 4" thick series of blocks as well if you'd like to try one of the upscale designed Beveled or Spyra series of blocks from Pittsburgh Corning.

* New construction projects in masonry openings - For most masonry openings under 25 square feet it is best to purchase mortared or siliconed block panels that can be set into the opening and mortared in at the top (also called the head), sides (also called the jambs), and bottom (also called the sill).

* Remodeling projects in framed openings -

- (Option A) If you can adjust your openings to fit one of the vinyl framed glass block windows you can install your project like a standard vinyl replacement window (make sure the window manufacturer takes the window nailing fins off for this type of installation) by placing the vinyl window in the opening, insulating around the window, and installing aluminum coil stock capping to meet the glass block window.

- (Option B) If you can't adjust your existing wood opening then remove the existing window sashes and mortar the glass block into the wood opening and install aluminum coil stock to the block and caulk where the coil stock meets the glass masonry units.

* Remodeling projects in masonry openings (concrete blocks or poured walls) - In remodeling projects measure the entire size of the masonry openings with the existing frame being removed (the only time you don't remove the metal or wood frames is when the frame is either seated over the concrete blocks or poured walls and removing them might cause damage to the surrounding interior or exterior walls). Then size your block window panels to be smaller than the masonry openings (these block windows can be sized basically in any 2" size increment). The window panels can then be mortared into the openings.

o Step 3 - Ask, "What should I use to put the glass block together into a window panel assembly?" - You might have heard varied opinions about how the block panel should be assembled (the most common methods are using mortar or silicone). While some companies may tell you that only one method is correct, they are often just trying to get people to buy the fabrication method they prefer. You should choose that method where the panel size is going to fit best into the opening (making sure the joints do not exceed 1" around the window). Included below you'll find some advantages of both the mortar and silicone systems:

- Advantages of Mortar over Silicone - Mortar is the traditional way to build a block window. The advantages of this system are the ability to vary the size of the mortar joint (helpful when you have an odd size), the mortar joints can be finished to match the existing masonry, and it's very difficult to break a block out of mortared joint.

- Advantages of Silicone - Silicone is preferred if you like an all glass look to your panel, or if you need a smaller window in an opening (silicone joints are smaller than mortar joints), and transportation is safer because the glass window will stay together better than with mortar.

o Step 4 -Ask, "How do I handle an opening greater than 25 square feet?" - When openings become larger than 25 square feet (mostly in commercial, architectural and institutional projects) it is often better to build the window block by block within the opening (this is because the panels would need to become larger, heavier, and are more difficult to handle). With openings of this size you will need to keep the following installation points in mind:

* The window usually requires a "soft joint" at the top (head), and sides (jambs) of the opening - Windows greater than 25 square feet need more space for expansion and contraction requiring glass block caulk be used at the jambs and head of the opening along with an expansion strip. For larger openings an aluminum channel will also help with concerns regarding wind loads.

* Structural steel or aluminum may be required - To allow for wind loads and structural safety larger openings (greater than 20 feet high for 4" blocks and 10 feet high for 3" blocks, and 25 feet wide for 4" blocks and 15 feet wide for 3" blocks) there should be a metal stiffener put into the glass block window. This stiffener could be a metal hidden plate, an I beam, or a T shaped mullion of steel behind the window/wall.

o Step 5 - Ask, "What should I do if my skills or physical abilities don't allow me to do this type of installation?" - Call a specialty glass block contractor or find a nationwide glass block window manufacturer (to make a pre-made glass panel) to make contract out the installation of this window. This will ease the process, reduce cost, and improve the quality of the block window installation project.

Now that you've got the 5 installation steps you're ready to either to get your hands dirty or hire the right specialty glass block contractor for your project.

Mike Foti is President of Columbus Glass Block, Cleveland Glass Block and Mid America Glass Block of Cincinnati, Dayton, and Akron and Vice President Eastern Glass Block of New Jersey and New York. These companies are nationwide suppliers, glass block window manufacturers, and installation contractors of glass block windows, showers, walls, and specialty colored glass blocks. Mike can be reached at the following:

Tel. 614-252-5888 Nationwide 877-668-5888

mfotigb@aol.com

glass block windows

how to install glass block windows

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The Beauty of Antique Glass

Antique glass includes so many different decorations, sizes, forms and shapes. Having any type of antique glass in your home can add to the beauty and character or theme that you would like to create. No matter what the size of your room or home is, there is always room for a piece of antique glass. Let us explore the shapes, sizes and forms that antique glass can take.

First of all, antique glass is not always clear. As a matter of fact, antique glass tends to be colored. This is not always the case, but stained glass is a classic antique feature that is found in churches, on antique lamp shades, and even on chandeliers. Clear glass allows light to shine through, which offers a beautiful rainbow that can reflect on a wall, mirror, or floor. Colored glass can sparkle when light shines upon it, giving is an elegance and a glow.

Antique glass comes in many shapes as well as colors. Glass chandeliers, vases, dishes, glass baskets, and bowls are among the different forms that antique glass can take. You might find clear glass antiques in these varieties, or some that are colored glass in yellow, green, blue, purple, and virtually any other color. You might even see what is called "milk glass" which is like a white porcelain antique glass. Milk glass is often painted with flowers or other designs to give the antique piece distinction and character.

There are many other types of antique glass besides milk glass. There is art glass, opalescent glass, pressed glass, historical glass, elegant glass, depression glass, carnival glass and Victorian glass. Flint glass, and early American Pattern glass are popular. Each style has a different texture, thickness, color, design and uniqueness to it.

With so many forms, styles, shapes and colors to choose from, it may be difficult to choose which kinds of antique glass you will want to add to your home. You might even decide to begin a collection of antique glass pieces. Regardless of the type of antique glass you choose for your home, keep in mind how delicate it is. Make sure that you keep it in a safe place that is out of the reach of children, and away from places that it might b knocked over during the busyness of life. Always keep it free from dust and stains so that it can shine and glow.

Victor Epand is an expert consultant for pottery, antiques, and figurines. When shopping for pottery, antiques and figurines, we recommend these online stores for pottery and antique glass

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Glass Console Tables - Functional, Eye-Catching Furnishings For Your Home

Glass is very popular today in the use of home furnishings such as tabletops, coffee tables, dining room tables and glass console tables. Glass has many different uses in the home with regard to home furniture. Wood furniture often has glass on top of it as a protective measure from getting scratched or nicked. Many use glass on top of dining room tables for the same reason as well as for the beauty it gives. A lot of patio furniture is also covered with glass. The glass that's used for these purposes is made a special way that involves heating to a certain temperature followed by a correct cooling period. This method, called tempered glass, makes the glass strong, durable and almost unbreakable. Many people, unaware of this special process, are still skeptical about owning glass console tables or other glass furnishings due to the possibility of breakage.

The glass on your glass console tables come in a variety of shapes, size and thickness. When you purchase these, you can choose the one that suits your needs and the needs of your family. You won't want to get a glass top that's too thick because it will also be very heavy for handling. Usually, the thickness of the glass should coincide with the overall size of the glass. The larger the glass is in terms of length and width, the thicker it should be.

Glass tops are often used for protective covers on wooden furniture or patio furniture. When you're using it for this purpose, such as glass console tables, the glass doesn't need to be very thick because it's not supporting a lot of weight. However, the glass should always have beveled or finished edges. Not only will this give your furniture a nice appearance but also they'll be no worry about sharp edges. Always make sure that the glass is held securely on the tabletop. Many homes that have young children choose glass console tables with rounded corners.

If you plan to put cold or hot foods on your glass tabletops, make sure you get tempered glass that will withstand the variances in temperatures.

You won't be sorry you chose glass console tables or any glass tabletops, as your wood is being protected from scratches and the glass adds a touch of elegance to the room. It will also add value to the overall appearance of the room. When you see a room filled with glass, you usually think "rich". Your guests will now feel this way when they enter your room.

Glass console tables make great additions to your living room, dining room or any room in your house. Even if you have small children, this is the perfect choice for functionality, style and beauty. You'll have no problems finding the style you want for the price you want, as these are very popular. They are carried in most furniture stores or if you don't want to travel to shop, you will be able to find a massive variety in online stores.

Author Jennifer Akre is an owner of a wide variety of online specialty shops that offer both items and information on how you can easily furnish and decorate your space. Whether it's your living, bedroom, or even your deck or patio, there are many tips you can use to make those spots both functional and beautiful. Today, she offers advice on how to create a fabulous indoor area by using an alluring console table, practical writing desk, and classic sofa tables.

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Depression Glass - Tips For Newbie Collectors

For the newbie collector, the huge variety of colors and patterns of depression glass may be a bit overwhelming! Time and experience, and a good depression glass encyclopedia, will help the novice learn how to choose pieces for their collection, and how to tell an authentic piece of depression glass from a reproduction. In the meantime, here are a few tips to help you get started on the right path!

Many collectors have the goal of collecting a particular pattern or color, although some just enjoy the variety and will pick up whatever they find attractive and within their budget. A full setting of a single color and pattern can be striking, but a mixture of patterns and colors has its own esthetic beauty. The choice is really up to the collector.

You may have decided to fill out the set of depression glass that Grandma left you, or set your sights on a particular style. The first thing you need to be aware of is that certain patterns and colors of this vintage glass were made in limited amounts and you may not be able to find enough pieces to create a place setting, let alone enough to set the table with. Before you start investing good money in a lost cause, do some research. There are many excellent collectors' web sites and reference books that can give you information on the availability of the pattern or color you are searching for.

Know the value of the pieces that you are seeking. As with all collectibles, some pieces may be rather pricey, while some may be picked up for a song. It can be frustrating to find out that you simply can't afford to finish a collection you have started.

Depression glass manufacturers were concerned about quantity, not quality, and the newbie may notice flaws in the glass and think it is an inferior piece. Depression glass is poorly made and flaws are to be expected. They don't necessarily detract from the value of the piece. It was mass produced and often given away at movie theaters, gas stations, and other businesses as a premium to attract customers. It could be found inside a box of laundry detergent or cereal flakes. Depression glass could be purchased inexpensively at grocery stores, hardware stores, and the local five-and-dime. The attraction of depression glass was that it was available in so many beautiful colors, which brightened up the drab homes of the era.

You may find that a piece of depression glass is out of shape, or wobbles, or leans to one side, or there may be color variations within the same pattern. Welcome to the world of depression glass!

Depression glass was not hand-finished, unlike higher quality glassware which had imperfections removed after it was released from the mold. The surface may have a "straw mark" as a result of the manufacturing process. A straw mark looks like a crack, but it is not, and will not get larger. A crack will catch the light and may look silver or gray, while a straw mark will only show up if the piece is tilted a certain way in the light. There may be a bump of extra glass, especially along the mold line. Mold lines may be prominent. Chips are undesirable, but it's possible that a spot that appears chipped may only be an imperfection where the mold was poorly filled (known to collectors as a "flea bite"). Small air bubbles in the glass are common. Minor flaws are normal occurrences and won't affect the value.

Glass that is cloudy or has lime deposits is considered "sick" glass and cannot be cleaned. If you are browsing through depression glass at an early morning yard sale, don't mistake sick glass for that which is dew-covered. Condensation can mask the real condition of the glass.

Due to its increase in popularity with collectors, much depression glass has been reproduced. Many pieces have been reproduced in color and pattern combinations that were never originally made. "Fantasy" pieces exist in objects, often pitchers, which were never in the manufacturer's inventory. Carry a reputable depression glass reference guide with you on your excursions to aid you in your purchases.

Depression glass is easy to find. Yard sales, flea markets, and thrift shops are good places to start. Many people who have no interest in depression glass or its potential value to collectors may dispose of it this way, and it will be as cheap as you're going to find anywhere.

Antique stores, retail web sites and online auction sites sell depression glass at higher prices than you'll find by rummaging. Keep in mind that antique stores and retail web sites will often set prices somewhat higher than the actual value of the piece. They know that if a collector has been looking for that item for a long time, they will pay the price!

Online auction sellers may misrepresent collectible glass and describe an item as "vintage" or "antique" when it may only be a reproduction. They may not necessarily be trying to rip off customers, but may only be amateurs who are not knowledgeable about vintage glass. Be careful only to deal with reputable sellers who have good feedback ratings.

If you are collecting for sentimental or esthetic reasons, the value of a piece may not be of particular importance. Buying glass as an investment, or with the intent to resell, is a different matter. Enjoy collecting depression glass, but start slowly to avoid making mistakes and getting stuck with reproductions that have little value.

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Stained Glass First Aid

Owners of older homes appreciate the beauty of stained glass. In some cases, the stained glass windows may have been the emotional "reason" that prompted you to buy your house. But as with so many other aspects of old house ownership, stained glass needs maintenance and care. Below are some suggestions on how to care for your windows -- and how to recognize when to call in an expert.

A stained glass panel is constructed of 1) individually cut pieces of clear or colored glass, or bevels; 2) held together by a matrix of lead came or copper foil. Lead came dates to mediaeval times and is the traditional method of assembling leaded glass panels. Zinc came is associated with the prairie designs of Frank Lloyd Wright and his contemporaries. Copper foiling is the method introduced by Louis Comfort Tiffany, and is the preferred method for constructing intricately designed art glass panels and lampshades. An additional step in the construction of leaded glass panels is the application of cement to fill the space between the glass and the inside surface of the lead or zinc came. Cement is applied to the front and back of the panel to weatherproof and add strength to the panel. Large panels also should be braced with saddle bars or reinforcement bars.

Inspect your windows for age and buckling. To assess the condition of the lead or zinc cames, look for telltale signs of metal fatigue and corrosion. Old lead is still functional if the exposed face of the metal (the flanges) can be lifted and flattened without cracking. Lead covered in a fine white powder has oxidized and has reached the end of its useful life. Zinc covered with small white spots is worn out, too. Examine the metal for hairline cracks near the joints, particularly around the border of the panel. These indicate metal fatigue.

Large or especially elaborate glass panels are often reinforced with steel or brass bars. These saddle bars, about 1/8" thick by ¼" wide, are attached to the cames and notched into the sash to stiffen the window and help support the panel's weight. Some reinforcement bars are soldered to the cames, while others are fastened with twisted copper wires. If the bars have separated from the came, they should be reattached using the original method. Bars that have split the came will require releading by a professional restorer.

If the panel has developed a bulge, measure its depth. A panel that is 1" or less out of line and does not rattle should be professionally examined, but may not need to be repaired. Panels more than 1½" out of true need to be removed from the window and professionally flattened and releaded.

Check the glass. Because of the difficulty in matching some old glass, it is preferable to repair cracked glass rather than replace it. And not every crack needs to be repaired. If the crack is small and in no danger of falling out, leave it alone. If glass is missing or badly cracked, call a professional. If repairs are minimal and the panel is large, an on-site repair may be possible.

If you have to transport the glass to a professional restorer, start by securing loose cames and glass panes with painter's tape. (Do not use duct tape!) Remove the sash with panel still attached. For added security, lay the panel on a larger sheet of plywood and tape it down. Smaller panels can be wrapped and laid flat in a wooden box.

Clean a sound leaded or copper foiled glass panel with a soft rag and a neutral pH soap. Wring the rag out well. Avoid abrasive products which can scratch the glass or metal. Do not use spray products or those containing ammonia. The liquid can get under the foil or lead came and the ammonia can react with the lead or cement. Windows in bathroom or kitchen settings can be cleaned with a dampened #0000 steel wool pad to remove soap residue, grease, and mildew. Polish with a paste product such as Glass Wax or a stained glass polish available at any stained glass supply retailer. Use a soft rag to apply the paste, let dry, and buff. CAUTION: This process may release lead dust into the work area. Clean any surfaces surrounding the panel (sashes, sill, and floor) with soap and water to contain any lead residue. And wear a dust mask.

Protective glazing, while not necessary, can provide protection to your stained glass panel from vandalism or a wayward baseball. To maintain aesthetics, the storm window sash should be of similar material to the original sash. Depending on local building codes, the glazing can be double strength glass or Plexiglas(R). Note that plastic glazing will yellow and scratch over time. Lexan(R), which will not yellow, is nonetheless very easily scratched. Tempered double strength glass is expensive, but offers the best protection.

Judy Soccio of SR Design designs and fabricates original stained glass panels, domes, and glass art. SR Design also offers complete residential art glass restoration and repair and specialized church window fabrication/restoration. Whether you need a treasured panel repaired or you want to commission a treasure for the future, allow SR Design to bid on your next glass project. Begin your design inspiration at http://www.wedowindowstoo.com

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Wedding Favors - Glass Love Coasters

At a wedding, glass LOVE coasters are a good way to thank guests for their attendance. Glass LOVE coasters are a wonderfully romantic, yet practical wedding favor.

The 3.5" x 3.5" or 4" x 4" coasters feature a bold design spelling out LOVE, a letter in each quadrant of the coaster. Two of the four quadrants are white, and two are clear. A free-form heart in the center ties the letters together. The design is frosted on the underside of each coaster. With proper care, it will last through years of use, reminding friends and family of your special occasion.

At your wedding, glass LOVE coasters can be separated out of the boxes, and presented individually to guests. This works well if your wedding favor budget is limited. Guests often receive only one coaster as a wedding favor, and will not be offended. Simply discard the boxes and place a LOVE coaster at each table setting with a note. Or scatter LOVE coasters around the room for convenience.

With a larger budget for your wedding, glass LOVE coasters can be presented as a set of four. They are packaged in sets of 4, nestled in a clear box, and tied with white ribbon. Even as a full set, glass LOVE coasters make an affordable wedding favor. We found them online for just $1.75 USD per box of four.

Glass LOVE coasters are not just wedding favors, of course. They are good anywhere love is the theme: bridal showers; anniversary parties, Valentine's Day parties, and more.

For a wedding, glass LOVE coasters fit easily with any color scheme, any theme, and any season. They are elegant enough to be formal wedding favors, yet casual enough to be informal wedding favors. They are available in clear or mirrored glass finish.

Unique Glass LOVE Coasters

Glass LOVE coaster wedding favors are so popular that no one would call them unique. Variations, however, may be unique where you live. Here are examples of glass LOVE coasters we found online.

1. AMOR glass coasters: In Roman mythology, Amor was the god of love. You might say he was Cupid. These wedding favor coasters use the four letters of his name in the quadrants of the square glass coasters. The quadrants alternate between clear and frosted glass. These wedding favors come four in a box.

2. Asian LOVE glass coasters: These unique wedding favors announce your love in several languages. Framed by clear lines around the frosted squares, an Asian calligraphic character for LOVE is "subtitled" in English with the word "Love" in script. This wedding favor comes two to a box.

3. Heart glass coasters: These coasters are clear, heart-shaped pieces of glass, each etched in beautiful fonts with words of love: joy, bliss, hope, faith, honor, forever - and "love" itself. Each wedding favor contains a set of 2 coasters. If guests come as a couple, each receiving a wedding favor, they go home with a set of four. These are great for occasions other than weddings.

4. Cherry blossom love coasters: These glass LOVE coasters feature beautiful pink cherry blossoms on frosted glass, with the word "LOVE" inscribed beneath. The use of a heart for the letter "O" makes these wedding favors a mix of sassy style with classic elegance. Tempered glass coasters are packaged four to a box. A couple receiving a wedding favor each will go home with 8 glass coasters - a practical reminder of your love.

Photo Glass LOVE Coasters

A more personal touch for a wedding, glass love coasters sometimes feature a photo of love.

Heart design glass photo coasters begin like other LOVE coasters. The tempered glass square is divided into 4 quadrants. On these wedding favors, however, the quadrants alternate between black and ivory. Each quadrant bears a free-form heart in the opposite color. The center of the coaster holds a card or photo. Present these wedding favors with place cards or notes in the center, and send photos later of the bride and groom. You might also insert a casual pre-wedding photo, or simply a card with the couple's names and wedding date. These wedding favors are packed two to a box.

"Capture My heart" photo coasters are romantic, heart-shaped glass love coasters. They feature a frosted glass rim with a photo frame center. Insert photos or cards and create an instant memento of your wedding. These wedding favors come in boxes of two hearts.

Finally, plain glass photo coasters come in a variety of sizes and styles. Insert a photo or message of your love, and they become glass love coasters. They make beautiful wedding favors.

Helpful Tip

At any wedding, glass love coasters are certain to be a fitting wedding favor. Before you present them, however, be careful to check for breakage. You don't want guests receiving broken wedding favors.

© 2007, Anna Hart. Anna Hart invites you to read more of her articles about wedding favors at http://www.secretsofweddingfavors.com. Anna has posted additional information on that site about other unique favors. If you would like to learn how to make unique wedding favors [http://www.secretsofweddingfavors.com/unique-favors/unique-wedding-favor-idea-mini-cd-photo-albums-19], visit Anna now.

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Architectural Glass Doors

Architectural glass is glass used as a structural element, as opposed to merely decorative or inserted in hole in the wall for the sole purpose of providing light and a way to see out. Thus architectural glass doors are doors wherein the glass is an integral structural element of the door.

There are many options when choosing glass for your architectural glass doors, although it may be wise to choose from safety glass types, which include toughened, reinforced and laminated glasses.

Crown glass is the earliest style of glass window. It consisted of hot blown glass forced onto a round, flat sheet and cut to size. It was a very expensive mode of manufacture and could not be used to make large panes.

It is not ideal for architectural glass applications, as it is not particularly strong compared to newer glass technologies. Also, it is expensive. It is still used for restoring old buildings, however, as it has a unique look that cannot be obtained through any other process.

Glass blocks or glass bricks are often used as architectural glass in building walls and partitions, but are not ideal for doors as they tend to be very thick and very heavy. They could be used for doors, but this application is rare.

To make rolled plate glass, large amounts of molten glass are thrown on the cast iron bed of a rolling table, and rolled like dough. It is then trimmed roughly while hot and soft.

Figure rolled glass results when the plate is cast between two rollers, one of which carries a pattern. The resulting pattern will appear in high relief. It is usually whiter than clear glasses and can be laminated or toughened to produce a safety glass suitable for architectural glass doors. This may be an option if you want to combine strength with decorative properties, and a whiter, more opaque color for the sake of privacy.

90 percent of the world's flat glass is float glass. Molten glass is poured onto one end of a molten tin bath. The glass floats on the tin, and levels out as it spreads along the bath. The result is that the glass will be smooth on both sides. The glass cools slowly and solidifies as it travels over the molten tin.

A very small amount of tin becomes embedded on the side facing the tin, and this side is easier to make into a mirror. Molten glass floating on tin will normally spread out to a thickness of about 6mm. It is made thinner by stretching it as it cools, and thicker by squashing it as it cools.

Laminated glass is a safety glass that holds together when shattered. It is held in place by a layer wedged between layers of glass that prevents the glass from breaking into large, sharp dangerous pieces. It is often used in architectural applications. As an added bonus, it insulates better against sound and blocks 99 percent of ultraviolet light.

SpecialtyDoors.com offers architectural doors, glass doors and many other types of interior and exterior doors for the home or business.

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Glass Block Windows - 4 Simple Steps For Design Success

Glass block windows today offer a vast selection of designs, patterns, and styles for any budget or purpose, but, before deciding to use this product there are more basic questions to be answered. First, why should you use blocks, where should you use them, and how can this product help to solve your problems or needs? The four steps to glass block design success will answer these questions and more.

o Step 1 - Ask, "What are my goals, then Determine Your Patterns and Products."- Begin with the end in mind. What problems do you want the block windows to solve? Do your existing windows seal poorly, are the frames rusted or rotted. Do you lack the privacy you desire, are you worried about the safety of your family or workers, or just looking for a hot look to add style to your property? Here are some block window recommendations to solve these specific problems:

o Drafty windows that don't seal properly - Consider the thin line series (3 1/8" thick) series of blocks. They are more cost effective than the commercial series (3 7/8" thick), and come in a wide variety of sizes (generally 4 x 8, 6 x 6, 6 x 8, and 8 x 8) for proper sizing of any window opening.

o Need More Privacy - If you're concerned about someone looking into your windows - especially in basement, bathroom, and garage windows - consider the high privacy Ice and Pristal patterns from Mulia or Icescapes or Delphi from Pittsburgh Corning. You can do without blinds or shades (saving you money) with these patterns but you don't have to sacrifice light transmission (in fact, some say they get more light because the old frame is removed in many glass block installation projects).

o Want more security - Since many of the glass block windows are mortared together breaking in through this type of window opening is very difficult and time consuming. These windows are also more cost effective than installing electronic security pads on windows and offer strong energy efficiency benefits as well.

o Looking for a cool, hot, contemporary look - Why have boring windows when you can add style and uniqueness to your home or business? Colored glass blocks, block patterns with beveled edges, frosted blocks, and artistically designed blocks with the ability to create one of a kind designs are all available in today's block window.

o Step 2 - Ask, "Do I have any special window needs?" - Especially in the commercial, institutional, and architectural markets glass masonry units can solve some very specific design challenges. Here are some examples:

o 60 or 90 minute fire ratings - Blocks with thicker faces (often called Thickset) can (with the proper installation) provide 60 and 90 minute fire ratings in window assemblies. Standard blocks also provide an excellent 45 minute fire rating which is good for most residential applications.

o High Security or Vandalism Applications - The Vistabrik pattern glass unit masonry block is a 3" solid piece of glass which resists bullets, fire, noise and graffiti. This product has been used extensively in transit authority projects in New York and New Jersey markets.

o Reducing Solar Heat Gain - Solar Reflective blocks, which use a metal oxide coating on the inside surface of the block, greatly reflects solar energy while reducing the passage of light. This helps property owners to cut their cooling costs and also to minimize fading of floor coverings as well.

o Step 3 - Ask, "Where should I use glass block windows?" - The following outline may very well broaden your thinking on where blocks can be used to provide privacy, security, energy savings, light transmission, or just an interesting design element for your home or commercial property.

o Use blocks outside and inside - Block windows are usually thought of as being used in an exterior window application like a basements, bathrooms, garages, and stairwells. Here are some new applications to consider:

Under kitchen or den cabinetry to let in light

Interior borrowed light window walls to move light through an inside wall while maintaining privacy (for example in small, dark water closets, or on the inside walls of basements to move light passively through the home).

In closets in homes to let in natural light to see your clothing and colors better while maintaining privacy.

Above one piece shower units in smaller bathroom to eliminate the need for costly skylights.

o Use glass blocks in new construction and remodeling projects - Often thought of as a renovation project block windows are now frequently found in new construction as well. In new home and room additions glass block new construction windows with nailing make installations simple and painless. In remodeling projects pre-fabricated window panel assemblies are factory made and allow the window to slip into the opening vs. the difficult task of laying the blocks one by one (improves your quality and cuts your time to get the job done).

o Step 4 -Ask, "Would I like this window to provide ventilation" - Glass block windows do not have to be solid glass. There are a variety of window block venting products to choose from. Here is a quick list of your choices:

o Air Vents to reduce heating and cooling costs and keep air flowing- With double pane glass and slim line vinyl frames the new generation of air vents allow air to come in while being small enough to keep intruders out. Available in white and tan and sizes to match exterior colors and maintain the symmetry of the block window.

o Power Vents to get rid of musty smell and improve indoor air quality - Power vents are vinyl framed ventilators with two powered fans that can move 145 cubic feet per minute of air to fight mold, power away smoke, circulate the air for healthier, thereby providing fresher living spaces. The Power Vent comes with an A/C adapter that plugs right into your wall.

o Dryer Vent Blocks to move air out from a dryer in a glass block basement or utility room window - Dryers are often located in basements and their venting is often directed through an inefficient single pane metal or wood framed basement window. Vinyl dryer vent blocks replace the space taken up by one block in a new glass window and allow you to get the benefits of the block without having to vent your dryer through the foundation (which can be considerably more expensive).

Now that you've got the 4 design steps you're ready to choose the right block window for your project. Be on the lookout for the next article in this series on the steps for glass block window installation success.

Mike Foti is President of Columbus Glass Block, Cleveland Glass Block, Mid America Glass Block Cincinnati, Dayton, and Akron and Vice President of Eastern Glass Block of New Jersey and New York -nationwide suppliers and installers of glass blocks.
Tel. 614-252-5888
mfotigb@aol.com

glass block design
glass block shapes

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The Best Wine Glasses

Have you ever gone shopping for your wine glasses? You will dazzled by the huge variety of wine glasses you find today on the display rack. You can as well say that there are as many types of wine glasses as there are types of wines! For ages, wine glasses have played a central role in the decoration of your dining table. It is no wonder then that you are really baffled about which variety of wine glasses you should choose to serve your guests tonight?

Now did you know that it is essential to have the right wine glass for the right wine style? The perception of the wine you serve is considerably influenced by the shape of the wine glass you have selected. Even while deciding cuisine etiquettes, all these matters make a lot of difference. Take a look at the stem of your wine glass while selecting the best wine glasses as this also makes a huge difference. The shape of the wine glass affects not only the temperature of the wine in the glass, but also the aroma and flavor of the wine.

For most social purposes, three kinds of glass wines are in common use. The red wine glasses should be characterized with rounder and more wide bowl for better cooling of wine, giving it a breathing passage. Two different styles of red wine glasses are Burgundy and Bordeaux. The white wine glasses are more straight sided or tulip shaped. It helps to keep the temperature of the chilled white wine. The sparkling champagne glasses are characterized with tall glasses which are having a narrow bowl on the top.

Apart from the styles of your glassware, you should be also keen to find out two aspects of your stemware - the glass you choose should be plain and clear to help analyze the quality and age of the wine. Secondly, the size of your glass should be so big that one serving will fill only bottom half of the glass. These wares that are considered as natural extensions of the wine should be able to capture the best color, bouquet as well as taste of your wine.

For ages now, crystal wine glasses have come to be associated as the best wine glasses for any occasion. It is their brilliant appearance and sturdy combination that sets them apart from the huge crowd. It is the lead content in crystal that makes it sturdy, soft as well as heavier. Some crystal glasses are also trimmed in silver or gold to give it that look of elegance! Also they assume the tone of the environment.

Though the choices are endless, the best wine glasses for you depends on many factors like the type of other cutlery you would be using and the type of wine you plan to serve to your guests to name a few. However, because of the huge attributes that a wine glass selection could add to your final dinner table, it is always advisable to go by your heart!

Jim Konerko provides great information about how to pick wine glasses [http://cheapwineglassesguide.com/the-art-of-picking-the-perfect-cheap-wine-glasses/], plus many other informative articles, at his finding cheap wine glasses website.

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Carnivale Glass - An Interesting Segment Of The Antiques Market

Introduced as Iridescent Ware in 1907, carnival glass acquired that name unofficially from collectors in the 1950s. This marvelous glassware acquired its nickname from the metallic layer on its outside, which constantly changed colors. Iridescent Ware was made in ornately patterned molds, and was sprayed with a mixture of metallic salts before it had started to cool, which allowed for the color-changing effects that gave the glass its fame.

Made as both functional and ornamental objects and found in a wide array of colors, carnival glass is an inexpensive pressed glass, often called dope glass by glass factory workers because of the process of applying the iridescent coloring, which is known as doping. Its production can be traced back to as early as 1907, with many, many different pieces in over 150 distinct patterns. It did not, however, command the expected prices, and was subsequently discounted heavily.

Translucent colors such as amethyst, marigold, cobalt, green, and red compose this glass, though it is also made in an opaque white referred to as milk glass. The glass was also made in semi-transparent or translucent pale green, and was called Vaseline or uranium glass; trace amounts of uranium salts were contained in the glass, which could produce a faint green glass glow in reaction to UV light. This was, of course, before the hazards of radiation were fully known and understood.

Millersburg glass Company is one of the largest producers of this kind of glass. Crystals were the first glass products of the company. But they decided to go for iridescent glassware to ride the wave of enthusiasm. So, during the early 1910, the line of Radium Glassware was brought out by Millersburg glass Company.

Carnival glass is a collector's item. Prices of these glasses vary wildly from a few dollars to thousands of dollars. Carnival glass has become antique glass collectible and there is a good active market for it.

It is very hard to identify carnival glass. Most of the time, the makers didn't mark their work, others only marked them part of the time. To figure out who made the glass one has to match, patterns, colors, sheen, edges, thickness and some other factures from old trade catalogs, examples of prior work or a reference material. Many manufacturers made close copies of rivals popular works to.

At the time of introduction in late 1907 the carnival glass was called as Iridescent Ware. The prices of this glass vary widely depending on their quality and availability. This glass is a highly collectible item with some of the pieces worth very little, while other, rarer items command thousands of dollars. There is a very active market for this item since it has become an antique glass collectible. Among the greatest producers of this type of glass was millersburg glass in Ohio. It is very hard to identify these products, because the makers didn't consistently mark their work.

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The Wholesale Reading Glasses

Wholesale reading glasses reduces the cost of expense for reading glasses and also provides a wide range of varieties from which we can make a better pick than in the retail outlets. These days' glasses are not only meant for clear vision, but also as a fashion accessory. So it is very much important to select a reading glass, which are both suitable for our eyesight level as well as a fashionable one.

In order to avail both these aspects aptly, it is much better to go for wholesale reading glasses. As they have a wider range of collection than the retail outlets. There are several types of reading glasses, say for example; bifocal, sun readers, no lines, semi frames, rimless, full frames, folding and many other reading glass related accessories.

It is said in a recent survey that two among three peoples are wearing reader glasses or other power glasses these days. Reader glasses are however worn by the aged or in other way at least after 40's. While buying from wholesale reading glasses it really saves time and cost, as you can avail all major brands under same roof at an economical and reasonable price.

But it is an agreeable fact that choosing a wholesale reading glass involves a whole lot of effort and decision-making. As there are many criteria's to be noticed before going for a new pair of reading glasses.

The comfort factor matters first than all the above. So it is wise to go for glasses that are light in weight and fits perfectly. As there are certain glasses, which gives a tight hold on the upper nose, which in a matter of time leaves a dark patch on the skin. Where as few other glasses are too loose that they fall off from the face often without grip.

Next is the sleek and stylish factor. In this category, the choice differs from person to person. What one finds attractive might be dumb to another. So it is always wise considering the comfort, style and price before getting a wholesale reading glass.

Bifocal glasses are the typical reading glass, which is clear on the upper half and magnifies the readable note when viewed through the lower section by tilting a little. No line glasses are the latest dimension of bifocal glasses. Sun readers are reading glasses with the facility of tilted glass in order to give sun protection.

Semi frames are glasses with frame tat appears till the upper half of the glass, where as the lower half is balanced through tight screwing. It seems to look more sleek and trendy. Like wise also completely rimless glasses can be available which compliments even more to the sleek and trendy effect.

Full frames are these days said to be oldies choice. This is a typical reading glass type. Folding type by itself is getting so many dimensions these days, like fold ability through spring, lever, magnet and many more. Whatever may be our choice of reading glasses, it is best to buy them from a wholesale reading glasses store.

Are you looking for wholesale reading glasses? Shop for The Hottest Designer Styles at http://www.ctswholesalesunglasses.com/

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