Showing posts with label Painting. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Painting. Show all posts

Saturday, July 23, 2011

Stained Glass Painting - 6 Big Myths Which Hold You Back


Here are 6 big myths of kiln-fired stained glass painting. Throw away these silly myths and take your stained glass painting to fantastic heights! Fasten your seat-belt and be prepared for the ride of your life.

The way we paint will change the way you paint!

Myth #1 - "Paint your trace lines first"

This seems obvious, and it's what all the books tell you to do.

But, when you paint a room, what's the first thing you do once you've cleaned all the surfaces?

You paint an undercoat!

It's just the same with glass. When you first paint an undercoat over the whole surface of the glass, your tracing lines will have a beautiful surface to stick to. It's amazing how much easier it is to paint a neat tracing line when you're no longer painting on bare glass but an on unfired undercoat instead.

Take care to paint the undercoat as lightly and evenly as possible and then to let it dry. Then start to paint the other details.

Using an undercoat is common sense when you think about it, and it works like a dream.

Myth #2 - "Paint and fire your trace lines before you paint your shadows and matting"

Well, this is so much a part of received wisdom that we feel a bit like Galileo when we tell you that it's just not true.

Of course, if you really want to, you can certainly paint and fire your trace lines first, but the point is you don't have to.

In fact, you can paint many shadows before you paint your trace lines: your glass painting will become extraordinarily delicate and suggestive when you do this.

Here's what you do.

Start by painting a light, even undercoat over the whole surface of the glass and let it dry.

Now paint some light, dry trace lines where you want some shadows to be, and let them dry.

Then reinforce these lines with second coats and let them dry.

The final step is to paint a light wash over the whole surface of the unfired glass, and, while this paint is still wet, use your blender to soften the trace lines and turn them into gentle shadows.

Once the paint is dry, you can then trace further details. The effect is gorgeous: gentle blurs and shadows which soften the boldness of your trace lines.

Myth #3 - "You must fire a layer of paint before you paint on top of it - otherwise the paint will blister in the kiln"

There are several causes of blistering, but painting on top of unfired paint is not one of them: we often paint six layers of paint, then fire our glass just once. That's right: we layer up our paint and fire our glass just once. The paint never blisters. So what causes blistering? There are four main causes.

A. Too much gum Arabic in your paint: the solution is to dilute your paint so that it contains a smaller proportion of gum Arabic.

B. Not waiting until a previous layer is completely dry: the solution is to allow earlier layers always to dry completely before you paint on top of them.

C. Correcting a line or shadow before it dries: the solution is to allow a stroke to dry completely before correcting it.

D. An incorrect firing schedule: consider slowing the rate of increase, lowering the top temperature and/or decreasing the amount of time that you hold the top temperature.

Follow these suggestions and you'll be able to paint on top of unfired paint as much as you wish. The effect can be astonishing - and your paint won't blister!

Myth #4 - "You can't paint on both sides of the glass and fire the glass just once"

When you paint on both sides of a piece of glass, you create a magical sense of depth.

For example, you can take a blue piece of glass and paint waves on top and fish beneath (as if you were peering through the waves to see the fish below).

The advantage of doing this in a single firing is that you can adjust both sides before fixing them permanently in the kiln.

Most people don't even consider painting on both sides of the glass. And, of those who do, most of them believe each side must be fired separately, but this is just not true.

At our studio, we place our glass on a bed of plaster of Paris: the heat from the kiln is more than enough to fire paint on both sides at once, and the underside never sticks.

Try this technique for yourself and see what we mean!

Myth #5 - "You can't mix oil and water"

Again, this seems so self-evident that no one ever questions it or even considers how to take advantage of it.

But we did, and here's the technique we've pioneered.

First of all we use some water-based paint to shade and trace as usual.

Then, before firing, we use some oil-based paint and add more details. It's amazing, but the oil-based paint doesn't disturb the unfired water-based paint below.

Then we fire the glass just once. In this way we can add as many as six layers of paint all on top of one another and finish our glass in a single firing.

Myth #6 - "The best way to mix glass paint is to mix a teaspoonful at a time"

We've left this myth till last because we first wanted to demonstrate the 5 amazing things we can do in our stained glass studio. And the reason we can do them is that we ALWAYS paint with a LUMP of paint.

We always mix several ounces of glass paint at a time, add a little gum Arabic and just enough water so that the glass paint is like a bulbous jelly fish that's been washed up on a beach.

This lump, of course, is too thick and dark to paint with as it is. But this means we can dilute it a little at a time and so prepare small batches of glass paint which are the perfect consistency for the next couple of strokes. So the lump lasts for ages. We cover the lump when we aren't using it, and we re-mix it from time to time.

Liberate your painting - paint with a LUMP! Painting with a lump is your passport to a whole new world of beautiful glass painting.

What happens when you throw away these 6 big myths of stained glass painting?

It doesn't matter what all the books say. It doesn't even matter what the experts say. The only thing which matters is what works. We threw away these 6 big myths some years ago, and you can see our painted stained glass in buildings across the world. If what we say strikes a cord in your heart and excites you forward to new skills, we'll be absolutely thrilled.




Stephen Byrne is a director of the Williams & Byrne stained glass studio: see the studio's portfolio at http://www.williamsandbyrne.com To pass on the studio's knowledge and experience, there is now a site where you can download stained glass designs and step-by-step guides to beautiful stained glass painting. Get these downloads and there'll be no holding you back from painting stained glass as beautifully as you've always wanted to: visit http://www.realglasspainting.com





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Saturday, July 16, 2011

How to Create a Reverse Painting on Glass


Introduction:

Glass is a non-absorbent painting support which does not allow paint to easily adhere to it - apart from through the paint's own drying process.

For this reason the outlines of a subject painted on glass need to be simplified when applied to an extremely smooth glass surface. Simplifying a subject does not necessarily detract from the end result after the painting is completed and the final result can often have an appearance similar to that of naive art in relation to composition and form and a certain number of other details. Many artists may find that such simplification can actually be very appealing.

Working the paint or changing outlines without smudging the surrounding areas of undried paint may require some concentration in the beginning, as well as a certain amount of skill, but with patience and the development of their skills using this painting technique, artists will find that applying and mastering the use of glass as a support will become easier as time progresses.

MATERIALS REQUIRED FOR PAINTING ON GLASS

Glass

Choose clear unflawed glass (or plexiglass) in the shape and size you wish to use. In order to begin mastering the technique of reverse painting it is advised to choose smaller sizes to begin with.

Paints

It is important to use a paint that will adhere properly to the surface of the glass. Oil based paints or acrylics are often used for this reason.There are also opaque and transparent ceramic artist colours that have been especially manufactured for using on a non-absorbent surface. Metallic colours (eg. gold, silver or copper) can also be interesting to work with. There are an increasing number of new art products available today that may be suitable for painting on a non-absorbent surface such as glass.

Paintbrushes

To begin choose a selection of small or medium-sized paintbrushes with fine, flat and pointed tips. Larger brushes can be used for working on a larger scale. Artists can also use less conventional tools for applying paint if they wish, depending on the effects obtained through experimentation that may interest them.

A penholder

Used for outlines (if required) and finer details. It can be an advantage to use interchangeable nibs suitable for creating both thick and thin outlines.

Ink for creating outlines on glass

The inks used need to be suitable for applying to a non-absorbent surface such as glass. As an alternative paint can also be thinned down into a more liquid form and used for creating outlines in which case attention must be given to to creating the right mixture of fluidity and thickness.

A painting palette or something similar to mix your paint on.

A palette knife -(optional) for mixing paint.

Artists paint cleaner or thinner - used for cleaning or sometimes for thinning, and depending on whether oil based or water-based paints are used.

A paint-drying agent - (optional) For mixing with paints to help speed up the drying process

Paper towelling or some clean rags

A mirror - (optional) can be used to check the progress of your painting while you are continuing to work. Place the mirror in a position where it will reflect your artwork from its viewing side.

Cellotape - or a similar average-width sticking tape

An easel - (optional) to prop your work on

A glass-cleaning product

PREPARING THE GLASS

Choose a piece of clear glass in the dimensions you would like to work with and check carefully to make sure the glass is neither scratched nor flawed. It is worthwhile remembering that a flaw in the glass itself will often detract from the finished appearance of a painting and may be impossible to remove after the completion of your artwork.

The sheet of glass that is to become your artwork constitutes the following:

(1) The 'painting side' - which is the side you will be painting on.

(2) The 'viewing side' - which is the side you will be looking at (or through) as you progress with your work and after it has been completed.

To render the cutting edges of the glass safe take a length of cellotape that will correspond to the length of one edge. Apply it carefully along that length (ideally so that it is folded equally over each side of the glass).

Repeat this procedure for the other 3 glass edges. The edge of the cellotape will also help mark the outer limits of your artwork.

Clean the surface of the glass thoroughly with a glass-cleaning product. Use paper towelling or any cleaning material that will not leave dust or threads on your painting surface.

Store the glass where it will be safe. If placed between sheets of newspaper it will be protected from scratches and dust.

CREATING OUTLINES

Art products in liquid form that are suitable for creating outlines on glass may be readily available in some countries. Oil-based paint,water-based acrylic and ceramic paint can also be used for this purpose.In order to create fine lines these paints must sometimes be thinned down in order to use with a pen nib or similar line-drawing tool.

To prevent lines from being effaced too easily you can use a paint that is oil based for creating the outlines of your subject if the paint you will be applying over the top of it (after it has properly dried) is water based. Reverse this procedure if your outlines are created with a water-based paint.

Always use a liquid paint product that will provide the best adhesion possible to a glass surface.

Due to pen nibs clogging relatively easily, attention must be paid to cleaning the nibs regularly.

OUTLINE METHODS

Method 1.

If you have a steady hand you can use a freehand method for applying outlines directly onto the surface of the glass.

Method 2.

Use an original subject for your painting (e.g. a drawing) and place this under the glass then copy it onto the glass surface.

Method 3.

Place a layer of carbon-paper on top of the glass then place your drawing on top of the carbon paper and with a pointed object trace the subject onto the glass. Be careful not to damage your original image (the image being copied) when using a pointed object.

Method 4.

A tracing table can be used for creating outlines. This is a table with a sheet of clear glass inserted into the top and with an electric light source situated beneath it. For those who frequently need to trace their work a tracing table can be very practical and useful.

Method 5.

You can omit outlines altogether.

APPLYING THE PAINT

Most artists have a preference for how to work when creating an artwork. Once it has been decided whether to work on a table or use a table-easel or a standing easel, it will be necessary to view the artwork regularly from its observation side in order to see its progress.

Some artists simply take the glass in their hands and turn it around to look at it directly from the observation side. Others prefer to use a mirror placed directly opposite their working area so that they can observe their progress while they paint.

Mixing and blending

If you are blending colours always do so on a palette or similar flat object before applying them to the glass. If colours are not well blended or mixed the result will be a streaky appearance in the paint on the observation side of the glass.

Avoiding smudges

When creating a reverse painting on glass it is important to watch out for smudges or particles of dirt or dust that may accidentally be transferred onto unpainted areas of your artwork as you are progressing. Unless removed these may appear as flaws that will show when viewing the artwork from its observation side. If they are also inadvertently covered with a layer of paint removing them afterwards may become very messy and difficult. When lifting off any smudges always be careful not to damage outlines or other areas of paint you have already applied.

Applying the paint

Once the outlines of your subject have thoroughly dried you can begin to apply paint to fill in the remainder of your artwork. Begin with the smallest and most detailed or intricate areas first e.g. eyes, faces, small figures or objects etc - and always keep in mind that your artwork will be observed from the opposite side to the one your painting on and that you are painting in reverse and that therefore foregrounds precede backgrounds.

When applying the reverse painting method it is a good policy to reflect carefully on the sequence in which your painting will develop before beginning to apply your paint. This will create a methodical attitude that is essential for this particularly interesting but also intricate painting technique.

Wishing you many pleasant hours of reverse painting!




You can read more about the technique of reverse painting on glass on my blog - http://www.reversepainting.blogspot.com/

Copyright Mayanne Mackay 2011



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